Trip to Tanzania

Day 12 - Tuesday 8 March 2011

Visit ends, journey and work continues

Our visit ends today. For whatever reason, I wake at 3.00am. The power is off. I look at my emails that have come in overnight. Have received a number of emails from people who have read our notes on a daily basis or who have visited the website.

Tina, Bev, Sara and I would like to thank everybody who has taken time to communicate with us. We have not been able to see the Evolution website during our trip, but we would like to thank Emily for her efforts and patience on collating our reports and photos.

I proceeded to use the next 3 hours sending photos for Emily to use on the website diary that I should have sent on a daily basis. They all take an inordinate time to go through the system and many have to be re-sent. The Blackberry runs out of energy and I have to wait until the power comes back on to recharge the batteries. I realise I will be in trouble with my H&S manager for excessive use of my fingers on a small Blackberry keypad!

I am dressed by 6am and go through to the kitchen where three of the Community are working by candlelight. I leave them and spend a few minutes of reflection in the gardens, looking at what is around me.

The Community comes to life and by 7am and we are ready to head off. There are two send offs, one at the house and one at the airport. Both are emotional.

I sit by myself on the plane, looking towards Mount Kilimanjaro and reflect on what has happened over the last 10 days.

I initially thought that I would write about the remainder of our days away. (The overnight stay in Nairobi, our visit to see my brother, Ian, and his wife Kit who, along with many others, have been very supportive of what we have done). On reflection this would be wrong, so this is my last report.

I have written the daily reports mainly through my own eyes but Tina (my sister in law) and Sara and Bev (who work with the Sisters in the UK) have also contributed greatly to what you have read. In their way, their contribution to the visit has been far greater than mine and that needs to be recognised.

We have worked as a team and, I believe, achieved so much - accepting that I seem to have got into trouble on so many fronts!

Memories - so many. Experience - should be undertaken by all, if only for a few days. Practical value - immense team work cannot be understated. Emotions - the pendulum swings from one extreme to the other. Poverty - mainly hidden from our eyes. Medical issues - Aids, not truly recognised. Lack of basics - taken for granted in the UK, food, water, power, medical care. Happiness - despite all their issues, it was on the faces of so many of the people we met.

Our visit was in a 'bubble' and we only scratched the surface. Sister Mary, along with her colleagues, were not afraid to show an insight of the problems, but we do not have to live it and breathe it like they do.

To those few, not just all the people we have met, who help so many, from the four of us THANK YOU.

We arrived in Nairobi and went to our Hotel for the night, Machusla Lodge.  The girls are by themselves, peace at last for me. They have a nice lodge, I have a large cupboard.  Before leaving Nairobi we visit an Elephant and Rhino Orphanage, more good work.

Whilst I have been away, I have had my companion - my Blackberry. I have kept in touch with the world. The wonders of technology! In that time I have received invites to a number of events supporting Charities in the UK. So, be sure, in the UK we have our problems and we all have to support these Charities as we see fit. In reality, we do not have the resources to assist all. One can only do what is feasible within our own individual constraints.

Despite this, whatever you do, all of us are 'service facing' and, whilst we may not get the recognition we feel we deserve, we have to keep servicing all those that need our help, both in our daily work environment and in our daily personal lives.

Words are failing me to eloquently thank the Sisters and all we have met. It would be wrong to thank any one individual, but to accept that it is (as with all of us) an interlocking invisible wheel that makes Tanzania and the world go round. We are all one very small cog in that wheel, but it is one we take personal and collective ownership for.

On behalf of all four of us, may we thank our families, our work colleagues and the Pallottine Sisters for this opportunity. The journey is not at an end, it has had many twists and turns, the work goes on.

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Day 11 - Monday 7 March 2011

Last full day in Tanzania

My day was spent finalising the accounts for 2010 with Sister Paulina, and towards the end of the day with Sister Mary.  Sister Paulina has a few pieces of analysis work left to do, just to ensure I have correctly allocated the income and the costs.

The work has been very challenging for Sister Paulina. It has thrown up a few areas where procedures need to be altered or tightened up. I hope the wider Community can embrace the changes that are required and fully support Sister Paulina.

The girls were taken into Arusha with Sister Mary and Albert. They seemed fairly relaxed when they came back, so the traffic could not have been that bad.  What is it about females that they must go shopping? After 10 days, the urge was too great. Nothing changes to life at home, they spent my pocket money as well!

They visited Father Michael who works in a very impoverished area of Arusha. A very charismatic person, who has been in Arusha for 5 years, who has to constantly chase monies. One such source is a charity run by Lester Piggott's daughter, who have quietly improved the lives of so many.

Through a combination of collective efforts, a well equipped sports hall has been built along with a training centre and a kindergarten.

The foundations have been laid for a new parish church that will accommodate a congregation up to 3,000. Father Michael should take a lot of credit, as he inherited a congregation of only 200.  The children's (the future) Mass has up to 1,200 attending.

I have previously described the mayhem of Arusha, this presbytery provides an oasis of calm.

Upon the girls return, Sister Theddy was presented with our donation for her leadership centre. She is so grateful to all who have made her life a touch easier (Many thanks).
 
The evening, by candlelight, was a sea of kindness and happiness. The Sisters and novices provided a simply prepared dinner, a beautiful cake, followed by 30 minutes of singing and dancing - wonderful.

Presents, including a second Kitenge, were given to us, along with a small token of thanks from us to their Community.

Tina made a wonderful closing speech of thanks on behalf of all of us. Sister Mary was eloquent, as usual, with her gracious comments.

Given there was no power and our early start in the morning, bed at 9.30pm, for me, after a shower that was with tepid water.

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Day 10 - Sunday 6 March 2011

Today the rain came

I got up at 3.30am (what's new compared to back home!). I was actually woken even earlier by the rains, a refreshing sight for the locals, which stopped around 6.00am.  This early rise was in the vain hope that I could complete the accounts. I couldn’t primarily because I need time with Sister Paulina to go through them so that she understands what has to be done.

It is Sunday 6 March and our time at Siuyu has come to an end and we are travelling back to Arusha.

The send off was brilliant, so much warmth. Clearly all four of us must have made an impression - or maybe they just wanted us away quickly! I described the journey down from Arusha to Siuyu in my update for last Tuesday. Facing us was 4 hours of travelling on dirt track and just under 4 hours on tarmac.

The difference today was the rain, the pools of water and parts of the road being like a motocross course. We had two Land Rovers again driven by Albert and Abel, both are very good drivers.

The countryside is fresher with some pools of water being used for washing, some for the kids to play in and, equally, some pools for the animals to drink. There are noticeably more people about, probably due to it being a Sunday. Many of the women very smartly dressed walking through the mud. Traffic is also noticeably busier with buses and lorries transporting supplies.

 No point repeating what I said for last Tuesday but there are four points of note:- 

1. We came through a tropical rainstorm over the Plains where the Maasai live. You could see the storm forming in front of you as one drove towards it.  The rain bounced off the road and sat on the parched surfaces. It only lasted 15-20 minutes but it was amazing to see how quickly life returned to normal. The Maasai shrugged off the rain as though it did not happen and continued moving their animals which still were kicking up dust as there was not enough water to significantly dampen the ground. More rains are needed.
2. Arusha was chaotic. It did not have any rain and many hundreds of people were heading home after listening to a local preacher. It is 7.00pm and we are consumed by the madness of the traffic and pedestrian flow. I am truly amazed that there are so few accidents witnessed and no visible loss of life or injuries.
3. You do not realise how small the houses are. It would not be exaggerating to say that the average size is no bigger than the size of an average lounge in the UK. In that space is the kitchen, lounge and bedroom for the whole family. No carpets, just earth or cement floors. Life is more outdoors during the day and there is certainly no junk/clutter. So when we complain about our own homes, relatively, consider how these people live. Remember also, they have smiles on their faces despite all their hardships.
4. My daughter, Clare, sent an email updating me about the arrangements for her Great Aunt's funeral. Aunty Mary, as I previously reported, died last Sunday night and her funeral is tomorrow - Monday. For my mother-in-law, she is the last surviving member of her 'Walshs' of Grangetown' family. Despite the sadness of the occasion, it will be a happy event as Aunty Mary was very well known in the Eston and Grangetown areas of Middlesbrough. I am sure the church will be packed. Clare's note not only brings you back to the reality of your own family's life but makes you reflect, again, on technology and despite being many thousands of miles away, one is very near.

We arrive back to our base in Arusha. After quickly unloading the Land Rovers and tidying up, we have dinner. A dinner that started and ended in song. The voices of the three local nuns and three novices, along with the two people who travelled with us from Siuyu - it was wonderful to hear.

We get to our rooms around 9.00pm, tired but happy. Our home for the night is very tranquil. We go to our individual rooms, where there is no TV.

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Day 9 - Saturday 5 March 2011

Last day in Siuyu

As previously reported, the Power is on during the day, but off at night. I’m still helping Sister Paulina with the accounts, she must be getting fed up with me, but we persevere. The accounts are are a combination of the Convent at Siuyu, Convent at Arusha, the School, cash and the bank accounts.

This year, 2010, for the 1st time the accounts are being sent for 'auditing'. Before they have been diligently prepared by Sister Hedwig mainly, but retained internally. Not being an auditor what ‘auditing’ means is an enigma to me. I believe we have to get them reasonably right and to allow the checker to find a few mistakes to justify their fee. I should have listened to my auditing colleagues within Evolution more closely so that I could appreciate the work!

Bev, Tina and Sara were out and about, a morning a visit to see Father Silvery at the Parish church. On arrival they met with the village elder who took time out show them round his adjoining farm which produces crops such as maize, pumpkin, banana, papaya and mango and in addition he keeps livestock. He shares his output with Father Tom at the handicap centre and with the poor from the village – now there’s community spirit!

When coming back to the Quadrangle, the girls pass the graveyard. The graves are very simple – Children’s graves are marked by a small cluster of stones, the Adults by either a wood, concrete or stone cross.  Many of the graves have no names, status or date.

Next on the girl’s agenda was a 16 mile drive along a bumpy dirt track to Mgori Dam in the Rift Valley. The Rift Valley runs from Jordan through to South Africa. En-route they pass the local cattle mart and slaughter house. Slaughtered animals are essentially suspended from wooden horizontal poles awaiting collection for the local supermarket - no refrigeration, just heat and flies!

At the dam the lake has created a beautiful array of habitat - plants, flowers, birds and animals although the only telling footprints on the shore are that of elephants.

In the afternoon, Tina returned to her second home - the handicap centre. She gave Father Tom a donation and he was delighted. As a reward we shared a beer with him after dinner.

Sara and Bev, along with Sister Marianna, who came from the village and joined the Community in 1996, went to Siuyu village and visited four houses, as follows:

• House 1 – a grandmother looking after 3 children, small room 6ft by 5ft with wooden stools. There was a small adjoining room (bedroom and storage) and outside was the cooking area.
• House 2 - larger, with 3 two seater settees and a coffee table. Posters adorning the walls. Outside there was a pen for the animals and two storage buildings.
• House 3 - similar to House 2 but with an additional dwelling for the husband!
• House 4 - similar to House 1, occupied by an elderly couple.

All cooking is done outside on open stick or charcoal stove with round iron cooking pots. Often accidents occur and I’ve seen evidence of this with two nasty burns on a 7 year old child.

All of the homes warmly welcomed their guests and pictures were taken.

At 6.00pm the power went off. It was our last dinner by torch light so we were treated to goat and small fish (brought by Able (one of our drivers) and threaded like onions, hung from the wing mirror of the Land Rover on the journey back from Mgori Dam!) along with a beer or wine.

At dinner, one of the candidates, Neema, presented a beautiful cake which she had made and iced.

Prior to the Sisters giving us a Kitenga (sign of honour) cloth to dress, which they wrapped round us, and singing us some songs, I made our thanks on behalf of the four of us to all there. For those of you who believe I have no heart or emotion, I choked. The faces of the Sisters and relaying a few of our experiences, was a bit too much for me.

It has been a wonderful visit to Siuyu, and I hope we all come back in the near future.

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Day 8 - Friday 4 March 2011

Pancakes and Power

Today we and the community and have had been 'treated' to pancakes. Whilst I was treated to one at 'elevenses' coffee break, and one or two were made at lunchtime for a few on the Sisters, they were predominantly made for dinner.

I say the pancakes were a ‘treat’ because they are only made when eggs are available. Whilst the community has a few hens, the egg production is low this is despite there being some new hens, they are not yet fully producing.

Other needs prevail within the wider community, so preference to the Sisters welfare is not given.  However, today the Sisters have been given some eggs from a local lady, who they have helped, and it is her way of a 'thank you'. So what we treat in the UK as 'normal', in Tanzania is often precious.

Food and water I have mentioned in previous notes, but today the Power situation was brought home to me. Each day they alternate between having power during the day or at night. Today there was no power between 6.30am and 6.00pm. How would you and your businesses cope?

There was no running water for the school children, so hand pumps need to come into action with water moved in buckets! My phone died a death and I had no means of recharging it. A country that moved away from generators to a National Grid, (that due mainly to a shortage of water in the Hydros and huge increases in unit cost) cannot supply other than on a rationing basis. Those of us old enough to remember the black outs of the 70's and years before can relate to what I describe above. What would happen if it came back to the UK in 2011?

I have been overwhelmed by the emails received from people who have read my daily reports. There are a number of suggestions on how to tackle some of the issues raised. We, all four of us, will follow up on them all when we come back to UK. More suggestions are requested and names of direct points of contact are cordially invited.

Today, I was kept out of the sun and worked we Sister Paulina on the laptop, until the batteries ran out. Tina, Bev and Sara were out and about.  After the laptop died, me and Sister Paulina went to see Laurent who is the bookkeeper for the school.

Laurent has worked at the school since the mid 90's. He cycles to work - it takes him about an hour. He is an honest respected employee but he needs to move into the 21st century. He has books and pieces of paper for everything. Everything is hand written - ink for narrative, pencil for numerical totals. He is fearful of computers but will shortly be taking his place on a course. When Laurent first started working at the school there was under 100 children, now there are 358 so his workload has increased many fold. He has now got to embrace change.

The three of us spent a couple of hours chatting through what are current procedures and what new techniques need to be considered for adoption. Sister Paulina will force through change though she may not be popular with her fellow Sisters and colleagues, but the changes are necessary. She is good and with the right encouragement will only get better.

I went round the School, initially meeting the teachers (this group being all male) then meeting the schoolgirls in Forms 1 to 4. Each child was given a pen and a pencil, kindly donated by various businesses. They were greatly received with many expressions of thanks.

Further details of the facilities in the region, Singida:-

• The municipality has a population of 160,000.
• We visited Faraja HIV Centre that undertakes outreach education and testing of all age groups (under 18 need parental consent) in villages within 25 km and a counselling and correcting misconceptions, run by Sister Catherine, with a complement of 17 staff and c20 volunteers. Crucially, a number of these volunteers are ex-clients so can provide practical experience of home based care and counselling.
• Sadly, with the revisions to Charitable Aid taking place in Eire and the USA, their principal sources of funding may dry up. Let's hope they survive, as their work, similar to that undertaken by DREAM in Arusha, is outstanding.
• Singida has two lakes, but only visited one. A source of salt for the community. Fishing is primative using hollowed out logs as boats.
• Siuyu village - Whilst I had a walk around the village with Sister Adolphina, Sara and Bev climbed the Rocks behind the village which I was told was a bit of a scary experience, especially coming back down but apparently a magnificent panoramic view from the top.

At the end of the day, after more pancakes, there were after dinner songs.  With the power back on, there was no rest for the wicked as I had to plough on with the accounts. Tina, Bev and Sara were entertained with 45 minutes of songs performed by the 16 candidates in the Community. A beautiful welcome, regional songs with some dancing and the National Anthem, an excellent performance.  They were also given a pen and pencil each!

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Day 7 - Thursday 3 March 2011

A girls day out

In searing heat, I had a day of doing accounts preparation with Sister Paulina whilst the girls swaned off; they told me they had had a tiring day!

Sister Paulina recently graduated with an accountancy degree from University, she got a first. She is a very bright girl, who is tasked with bringing the accountancy systems into the 21st century. We spent a day doing Excel summaries on the laptop and preparing a Trial Balance - that does balance. She needs the practical experience and relates back to T-accounts.  I really enjoyed the day.

Whilst I helped with the accounts, Tina, Sara and Bev went with Sister Mary to Makiungu village 4 to 5 miles away. Makiungu is famous in the region for the huge rock which sites behind the village and its anthills.  Some of the anthills are 10ft tall and, once vacated, are utilised as sand in the manufacture of bricks.

Makiungu is the village that the Order came to in Tanzania in the 1980's. The Order’s house was originally built in 1908 by the White Fathers and is situated in the grounds of the hospital (a District Hospital since 2008) run by The Medical Missionaries of Mary.  The District Hospital has its own airstrip, 150 beds, outpatient facilities, a surgeon, a gynaecologist, medical officers, qualified nurses and many trainee nurses.  This team covers the area’s medical, surgical (it has two theatres), maternity, HIV, malaria and pharmacy needs.

They told me there was clearly an acute shortage of doctors.  When Tina and I are home we will try to persuade our newly qualified nephew, Philip (and his fiancé Liz), to come out here for a couple years to help. The hospital is expanding, but the infrastructure is lagging behind.  A Maltese group, the Mission Fund Group, are currently funding a new building to house staff and visitors. I was told the equipment is basic at best; green plastic garden chairs have been used to form the base of wheelchairs!

Tina, Sara and Bev met Charlie Camilleri who comes from Darlington (it’s a small world), who was undertaking ironwork (I assume for leg callipers and the like) and they witnessed (looking through a grill from outside the theatre) an operation being undertaken by Sister Sheila (the surgeon) – they told me  did not eat lunch after seeing that.  They also heard one patient’s story from a lady called Suzanne, who works and stays with the Sisters. She told them of a newly admitted patient, a two year old boy, whose drunken father had struck him behind the knee with an axe!

On Tina, Sara and Bev’s return from the hospital we all visited a rehabilitation centre adjacent to the school where we were staying which treats mentally and physically handicapped children and has physiotherapy facilities - one of the few centres that does this in Tanzania.  It was opened in 2008 and run by Father Tom Ryan, a Pallottine Father originally from Tipperary, who was also handicapped by limited leg movement.  The rehabilitation centre is funded mainly by donations but is also working hard on self-sustaining solutions.  The centre was designed to house 35 children but at the moment accommodates 73 at an age range of six to thirteen.  The centre costs €25k to run but few of the staff are actually employed, nearly all are volunteers.  They are currently trying to raise €20k to build two new houses for the centre.

Despite the lack of funding and the overpopulation of the centre the over-riding observation was the happiness on the children’s faces, their perseverance to walk and determination to be integrated with the local school. Some of the kids walk 1/4 mile, with the assistance of walking frames, to get to the centre.

Finally, back at the school, we were shown around a 3-bedded dispensary within the grounds.  This dispensary looks after sick children from the school and the local community, looks after babies and tests for HIV, Malaria, Typhoid and Worms.  The dispensary is where Tina has been sleeping during our stay and where hears the schoolgirls jog past every morning at 5.30am to reduce their high blood pressure – it does nothing for Tina's pressure with their singing!

We all walked through the rest of the grounds to the main gate where we were mobbed by children.  I hid in the maize while Tina and Bev chatted to the children who were fascinated by their white skin and their hair.

New observations are that I have only seen a few snakes so far, I thought I'd have seen many more.  There was a small one outside Bev and Sara’s room, which Sister Hedwig then killed in front of them.

I did my own washing by hand in the cold water.  I did not iron – that is going too far and who would I meet out here to be bothered?!

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Day 6 - Wednesday 2 March 2011

Life in the Quadrangle

Arriving in darkness the previous night you fail to get a perspective of the location.  Simply there is a large fenced and gated quadrangle, a complex. Within this there is another gated quadrangle that is occupied by most of the religious community. Immediately outside the fenced area is a church, a centre for handicapped children run by Father Tom Ryan (a Pallottine Father) and a centre for religious studies. Another fenced area for housing for teachers and key employees. A third gated area for the school - classrooms and laboratories, dormitories for the children (80 per block), further housing for school teachers, kitchens, examination hall, admin and small shop and a medical dispensary. There is a public footpath that allows local children to go to and from their local school running next to this school.

Overall, it is basically three neat self contained units. All the buildings are single storey. Throughout there is colour - trees, bushes, plants. Vegetables and maize are grown everywhere - the problem is a lack of water means yields are low.

Some background details:

• Nuns - teachers - 8
          - dispensary - 3
          - office - 3
          - buildings, electrical - 1
          - formation - 1
          - primary school - 1
          - student teachers - 3
          - students at university - 5
  Total 25 (plus Sister Mary the Provincial)
• Candidates (postulates) - 18
• Pupils - 358
• Split: Muslim - 10%, Protestants - 20%, Catholics - 70%
• Sponsored children - 1/3rd
• Age - mainly 13 to 19, but a few older, oldest is 28
• Basic Annual Fee - £300  -  Other costs - £100
• Teachers and school staff - 20
• Class size - 50 (not uncommon)
• Average wage of teacher - £250 per month, plus accommodation
• Project started - 1994  -  Opened - 1995
• Power - due to shortages rotates between 6am and 6pm, then 6pm to 10pm
• 5.30am - Children rise for a cross country run (Tina woken by their singing as they run;
  7.15am - Assembly
  7.30am - Start
  2.30pm - Finish - then extra curricular activities and study
• Washing - by hand - pristine
• Cooking - wood fired stoves, a full time job collecting and chopping wood
• Water - when electricity, pumped through. When not, hand pumps in various locations.
• Water bores - when electricity from 120 meters down, hand pumps 25 meters down (less plentiful)

There are some fundamental needs:

• Sponsorship - need to try to set up a Gift Aid scheme for £30 per month for one child
• Water Aid - need a more comprehensive system with better access, flow to locations and irrigation
• Solar Power - with energy shortages, washing and showers with cold water, but plentiful supply of sunlight, Solar must be the way forward

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Day 5 - Tuesday 1 March 2011

'Rockin' and Rollin'

Each morning I write my notes at 5/6 am. Today slightly earlier as school congregates at 7.30am to start their day. The Sisters rise about 6.00 for their prayers, Mass and breakfast.

We arrived last night at Siuyu, to a boarding school for about 360 secondary aged pupils.

Yesterday, we travelled from Arusha to Siuyu. A journey of 320km, 200 miles. It took us just under 8 hours, allowing for a lunch stop with Father George at Magugu. The journey equivalent of Darlington to Newcastle five times. 120km of road, 200km of dirt track. Our journey started at about 8.00am, Bev, Sara and Tina had their big bags loaded onto the roof rack of one of two Land Rovers. I, being late (as I was finishing my emails), but also only having a small bag had mine placed in the back. I never understand why ladies travel with so much, we are only away 6 days before being back at Arusha.

Two Land Rovers, two drivers, Sister Mary and three of her colleagues, Father Andrew who has gratefully accepted a lift with us, rather than taking the bus (not a luxury coach but a c20 year old mini bus full to the gunnels), and the four of us. The Land Rovers are loaded with provisions, such as sugar, cloth to make clothes and bananas from the garden, all cheaper in Arusha.

The roofracks were used, but the back area was utilised - in a manner that allows Bev and Tina, in their respective vehicles, to 'bed down'. I am given a present - corn on the cob, roasted, for my lunch. The Nuns and novices we have left behind must have taken pity on me, as I was the only one getting a present!!!

It takes till midday to sort everything before we get going. Normally I would be getting impatient, but you have to go with the flow. We get diesel, check the tyre pressures, get tickets for Sister Mary's next trip back to UK, get some books, some papers, some currency is exchanged, and some more foodstuffs.
 
Being white, wherever we stop the street sellers swarm around us. Only our driver, Albert, buys something - towels where he negotiates a 60% discount.

Heading South, South West from Arusha (far less traffic than the previous day) the first 120km is on tarmac. A road built by Italians about 20 years ago. Predominantly straight like a Roman road. Little traffic, we pass about 100 vehicles on this stretch, mainly buses and lorries. This statistic shows the difference between the congestion of Arusha to the plains. Sister Mary sits behind me and throughout the journey she recounts various facts, stories, the history.

Our journey can be described as tedious, but as a first trip, despite the miles of Plain in the first section and undulating terrain in the second section, there is plenty to see.

At the end of the tarmac road we stop at the village of Magugu where we are welcomed by Father George. A Pallottine; he was the one some 20 years ago who encouraged the Sisters to start their work in Tanzania. He recounted with warmth and fondness his visit in 1986 to Macclesfield, Rochdale and London to see the Sisters. Meeting Sister Christine, the then Mother Superior, and having full discussions.

As a child Father George was a sickly boy, but a local priest built up his strength with extra amounts of milk, a commodity in short supply in those days. He mentioned that many years ago he had an alcohol problem, but turned the corner by writing a book on the subject that is still read to this day. He has not drunk alcohol for some 30 years. Only a few minutes was spent with a fascinating man.

It was here my Blackberry came to life. In the middle of nowhere I get 26 emails. I had not had any for the previous 7 hours. Emails do come through in blocks, early morning and afternoon up to 4.00pm UK time. No signal since yesterday evening and currently.

In the first part of the journey we pass through the Plains dominated by the Maasai. Our Arusha base is the Waheru tribe, Arusha town is predominately Warusha.

The journey on the dirt track passed through the tribes of the Wabugwe, Sandawi, Wafyomi, Wairaq, Wabaraiq - who are a recluse group that carry spears wherever they go and the Wanyatura. This last tribe are the indigenous group in Singada region, where Siuyu is situated.

The heading ' Rockin' and Rollin' ' describes the travelling along the dirt track. Predominantly, mud with grooves where the water has flowed down and cut into the soil. Some camber, too many speed ramps when you pass by roadside houses, occasionally some rock/grit surface. Normally drive in second/ third/fourth gear, rarely top. Tina and Bev being in the back of their respective Land Rovers, I felt sorry for. I need not have worried as they were comfortable on their 'beds.'
 
The landscape was mixed – maize and sunflower in the main. Dark brown soil, but in need of water. Many crops growing but no real growth of produce.

The Chinese are building a new road, in three stretches by three different contractors, that will eventually mean a tarmac road that will help everyone enormously. There are many miles built but not open - very frustrating as you get tossed around. It appears they want to complete the whole road, then open it. It will take a few years yet to complete. I hope common sense prevails and sections open as completed, if only to give temporary relief to travellers.

At 8.00pm we eventually arrive at our destination. We are met by some 20 nuns, I cannot remember their names, just a blur. They are so welcoming and have prepared dinner. I felt drained after the journey and probably did not reciprocate as well as I should have. I will be better tomorrow.

Bed is at 9.30, but not before having a 'shower'. Actually the showers do not work, so a container of hot water, cold tap water mixed in, and a ladle. Fully washed, a more refreshed person. Teeth washed with bottle water, as tap water is not drinkable. Finally, tucking the mosquito net in.

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Day 4 - Monday 28 February 2011

A day of observation

Monday started on a sad note, with the news that Aunty Mary had passed away overnight. To Tina and I, she was our respective spouses aunt. She had had a good innings being 94 and not being in good health in recent months. A few prayers were said.

I was in trouble from the start of the day (not a surprise). Sister Mary wanted an early start, but I needed to finish my note back to the UK. A knock on the door from Bev, a quick shower - no hot water, just tepid - shave and late for breakfast!

Little did I realise the insanity of life in Arusha. Arusha has a population bigger than Tees Valley, I believe; we must have met them all today!

We set off in our two Land Rovers. Two drivers, Sister Mary, four other Nuns, and the four of us. A two lane main road was, in parts, a five/six lane road with vehicles on your inside and outside. In addition to pedestrians, cycles, motor bikes, hand pulled carts with goods being moved (like rickshaws). Horns going, hand signs being made, nerves on edge.  I was reliably informed that people had driving licenses, vehicles with insurance and MOT. You could have fooled me.

Main roads had traffic calming obstacles, that meant that one had to get into 1st gear and the flow of traffic just ground to a halt. I accept we were near schools etc, but it is very disruptive. Except for one policeman, who our driver Albert knew from his village near Singada, police were nowhere to be seen. The masses sorted themselves out. What was chaos to me, had an air of serenity to those around me. Everyone 'went with the flow'.

I have been fortunate to visit many parts of the world but I had not experienced anything like this.

We stopped at a small cash and carry, same style as a UK one. Got our picnic, headed towards the vast plains of Tanzania. Here the Maasai people live. Acres of land dotted with occasional dwellings and villages. A proud group of people that have kept to their traditions. Dressed in layers of cloth wrapped around, moving animals on foot. Today was market day, their day, with little interference from 'outsiders'.

In the evening, whilst travelling home, we saw many people walking to seemingly nowhere, as few houses could be seen, was an interesting sight - another piece of research. One observation, we did see police here in the countryside. Stopping speeders, overloaded lorries and whoever they fancied. Any different from the UK?

After around 100kms our journey’s end was a Game Park; new contrasting against old. Tanzanians paid a £1 entry, non-Tanzanians £24! We spent about five hours, travelling along dirt tracks. Saw Elephants, Giraffes, an array of monkeys, Zebra, various species of deer and antelope, numerous species of birds and butterflies but no wild cats unfortunately. Very interesting, with most animals seen up close. Bev got marginally too close to an elephant! Many pictures taken; batteries dead.

The practical side of this excursion is observing what they are doing to preserve animals and people.
Yes, tourists are funding this: Yes, hotels and an infrastructure are being created: Yes, observing nature in a 'semi wild' location is educational: No, not sure the average punter wants to see behind the facade: Look at the quality of housing: The lack of health and safety: The lack of education: Lack of health care and probably high crime rates. Why do we want to change things? In many ways we don't, but we do have to give some basics back to life, hence the 'hidden work' done by so few for so many.

Other observations - I did not want to intrude on the Maasai people as they go about their daily lives. The art of haggling - Sara, Tina and the Nuns - daunting sights. The school children, many of whom dressed in pristine condition, making their way home at 7.00pm as it is dark. Coming back to base where there is no electricity (a daily occurrence) and one eats by torch light. Prices for various basics such as sugar, vegetables are higher than the UK. Our collection of pens and pencils, donated by a number of businesses, given out singly, were so appreciated.

Having a 45 second cold shower at 10.00pm, as I am covered in dust, as the locals wait for the rains to replenish the water supplies

So, another day ends. I reflect on Aunty Mary and the good she brought to many in Tees Valley; the same, but in a different location and by so few. Collectively, the hope of Bev, Sara, Tina and I is that we can attract more to assist going forward. Change comes from within, help comes from outside - but it must be in a focussed way. Tomorrow we travel to Siuyu, 6/7 hour journey on a mixture or tarmac and dirt road.

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Day 3 - Sunday 27 February 2011

Sunday in Arusha

Looking back on yesterday, my overriding thought was there are times one says little and just observes.

The day started with children’s’ Mass. Watching about 100 children of all ages taking pole position. This was their Mass, and the 50 or so adults present took backstage. They were happy, singing, attentive, absorbing to a Mass in their local language.

The Mass was taken by three Polish priests who all entered the priesthood together 20 years ago. A special time for them all. After Mass we toured round the House and its gardens. In daylight it is an impressive building, with a truly inspiring chapel. Simple in design, but a wooden fascia roof and wooden pews of high quality workmanship. Floor tiles to last, and a simple but effective alter.

The house is three sided within its own walls. Reminded me of colonial houses in Malaysia, where I was born, or India.  The gardens were all around the house with fruit trees, sugar cane, cows, hens and vegetables. But time is not on their side, so more could be done, as always.  The house, on close inspection, is in need of some painting and varnishing, just like home. Need to encourage some tradesmen to come out for two weeks!

A walk down to the river to see one of the two footbridges the Order have had built. Makes life so much easier for locals going from A to B. Lessons were learnt from the making of this bridge so the second bridge was a higher specification. Whist the wooden bridge was about 10 years old, there was no vandalism or graffiti.

Going to the top of the hill at the other side, one saw an expanse of fertile land cultivated with different crops. Cattle and goats being herded to a new site, women carrying grass or wood on their heads. How they do not injure themselves?  Tina tried to take photos of an array of butterflies, all different colours but never appearing to settle.

After lunch we journeyed down to the road end. We were met with a scene of two cars badly damaged in the ditch. Thankfully, little human injury, amazing when you see the damage to the cars. We are told that looters descend on these cars and steal from them, but here there are enough people around. We crossed the road to another community house owned by the Diocese. We are met with a flood of happiness in their greetings. We are given homemade juice; wonderful, popcorn and biscuits. Just after lunch, so not tempted too much.

We are shown around, and see that progress to renovate some accommodation for visitors has halted as the Diocese has not provided the funds. They need about £250. Their water pump was stolen, so Tina immediately thinks of Water Aid in UK. Her friend in Northumberland Water will be contacted on her return. Bev considers a major pump supplier in her home town to approach. Such simple improvements will give them so much more for their works.

We then journey 5 minutes to the DREAM project. This is a medical centre that provides care to victims of Aids, Malnutrition and Drugs. Everyone who knows me, knows my fear of anything medical. Bev and Sara, as nurses, are in their element.

Sunday is quiet at the medical centre, but it has about 2,000 people on their lists.  The Nuns, as everywhere we have been, just take everything in their stride. Their faces of joy are wonderful to see. I feel I am encroaching into the patients’ space, but you are told about their work that includes treatment of Hepatitis and TB, women with Aids; and the drugs used during pregnancy to try to ensure their babies are not infected. The denial of so many men and women that there is a problem. The education of people. To me, immune from this life, fascinating work. Undertaking such care, by a dedicated few. Throughout, humour and joy transcended through their work. At this centre, a collaboration of various religious groups and lay people.

Back at base, I reflect on a day where I said little, but learnt a lot. I am out of my depth in this world, but a world I must try to understand more of.

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Day 2 - Saturday 26 February 2011

Arrived in Arusha

Up at 7.30am, a quick breakfast and on our way back to the airport.

The airport was relatively deserted compared to the previous night. The Duty Free area stretched as far as the eye could see in both directions. Shops of no real interest to me, watched the world go by.

The flight to Nairobi was again uneventful, other than seeing the copious amounts of brandy being drunk by the lady next to me!

At Nairobi, only stayed in the terminal. Small but busy with many small knick knack shops. Worth a visit on our return to possibly buy some items.

Small plane down to Kilimanjaro, full for the hour's flight. Saw the mountain through the clouds.

Arrived at Kilimanjaro International Airport, but it was less busy than Durham Tees Valley. Filled in our visitors card, had our yellow fever card and passport checked. We had arrived and the adventure starts in earnest.

Sister Mary, along with 3 other nuns met us in two Land Rovers. I soon realised why Land Rovers were required.

In the time it took us to load up the Land Rovers, light had changed to dark.  To go about 35 miles to Arusha took us an hour. Cycles and motor bikes with no lights, people walking in dark clothes along the road barely visible, an accident or two, roads that were poorly maintained and there were a number of broken down vehicles on the road.

Got to our home for the next few days, to be met by more Nuns, singing and very welcoming. Also no power, so everything done by torch - a common occurrence. Looks a grand house, looking forward to seeing in daylight.

Had a very simple but satisfying meal, of home grown vegetables and local produce with mint tea.

Got to our beds at 10.00pm with mosquito nets to pull down. Power came back overnight, dawn about to break on another new day.

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Day 1 - Friday 25 February 2011

Arrived at Newcastle Airport - a bit blowy!

Checked in, a problem with Tina as she was initially given the wrong ticket. Resolved; so she is coming with us!!!

We have all managed to be seated together on flight, so will have to be sociable.  Had a coffee before flight.

Due to arrive in Dubai early hours of tomorrow morning!  Will update on arrival.

The flight from Newcastle was pleasant but uneventful. Dubai Airport, even at 1.00am, was a mini city. A mass of people, so many that despite there being over 20 passport checkouts, it took over an hour to get through. Outside was awash with taxis and buses.

Got to the hotel and our beds at 3.00am.